Starlink Not Working? Complete Troubleshooting Guide (2026)

Few things test your patience quite like a dead internet connection. When your Starlink not working is the problem, and it’s your only lifeline to the outside world, the frustration is something else entirely. Whether the dish refuses to connect, the router lights are acting bizarre, or your speeds have tanked to basically nothing, this guide walks you through diagnosing and fixing the issue fast.

Before you get deep into the troubleshooting weeds, though, run through this 60-second quick diagnosis checklist. You’d be surprised how often it solves things immediately:

Quick Diagnosis Checklist

1. Check the Starlink app, Open the Starlink app (iOS) or Starlink app (Android). It shows real-time diagnostics including connection status, obstructions, and alerts.
2. Power cycle your system, Unplug the power cable from your Starlink router (or power supply), wait 30 seconds, and plug it back in. This fixes roughly 50% of issues.
3. Check for outages, Visit Downdetector’s Starlink page or check the Starlink app’s “Network” section for reported outages in your area.
4. Inspect cables, Make sure the Starlink cable is firmly seated in both the dish and the router. Look for visible damage, kinks, or chew marks.
5. Check for obstructions, Use the Starlink app’s obstruction checker. Even a single new tree branch can cause connection drops.
6. Look at the dish, Is it buried under snow, ice, or debris? Starlink dishes have built-in heating, but heavy accumulation can overwhelm it.

If those quick checks didn’t sort things out, keep reading. We’ve organized everything by symptom so you can jump straight to your specific problem. Not sure how Starlink works in the first place? Start there for background before troubleshooting.

Is Starlink Down? How to Check for Outages

Rule this out first. Before you start poking at hardware, confirm whether a Starlink network outage is happening in your area. If the network itself is down, no amount of rebooting or cable-wiggling will change a thing. Here’s how to tell if it’s on SpaceX’s end.

Method 1: Check the Starlink App

Your most reliable source. Pop open the app and look at the main dashboard:

• “Online”, System’s connected and running normally. The issue might be your local WiFi or a particular device, not the satellite link itself.
• “Offline”, Your dish can’t reach the Starlink network. Could be an outage, could be local hardware.
• “Searching”, The dish is booting up and hunting for satellites. Totally normal after a reboot; give it 5 to 20 minutes.
• “Network Issue” or “Outage”, Starlink has confirmed something’s wrong on their end. Sit tight. Nothing you can do but wait.
• “Obstructed”, The dish’s sky view is partially blocked. See the obstructions section below.

Tap on “Advanced” or “Support” > “Network” in the app for more granular outage details and to check if scheduled maintenance is hitting your area.

Method 2: Downdetector

Downdetector’s Starlink status page pulls in user reports in real time. See a spike in the last hour? The problem’s probably widespread, not just you. Downdetector also shows a heatmap so you can tell if your geographic area got caught in the mess.

Method 3: Starlink Support Page

Head to support.starlink.com and log into your account. The support dashboard flags any active alerts or known issues for your service address. You can also check the Starlink status and alerts page for currently tracked problems.

Method 4: Community Reports

The r/Starlink subreddit is wildly active. If Starlink’s having widespread problems, you’ll see a flood of posts within minutes. Search “outage” or “down” filtered to the past 24 hours.

If Starlink is down: Nothing to do but wait. Outages generally clear up within 15 minutes to a few hours. Need internet urgently in the meantime? Your phone makes a decent hotspot in a pinch, and we cover other temporary options in our Starlink alternative guide.

If Starlink is NOT down: The problem’s local to your setup. Keep troubleshooting below.

Starlink Not Connecting to Internet, Step-by-Step Fix

This section covers when your Starlink internet is not working at all. The dish looks powered on, but you’ve got zero internet. This is the single most common complaint, covering situations where the app shows “Offline,” “No Signal Received,” or your devices display that maddening “Connected, No Internet” message.

Understanding Starlink Status Indicators

First thing: check the LED light on your Starlink router. The light on the underside (Gen 2 router) or front (Gen 3/mesh router) tells you what’s actually going on:

Step-by-Step: Fix Starlink Not Connecting

Work through these in order. Each one tackles a different possible culprit, starting with the most common:

Step 1: Power Cycle the Entire System

This is the single most effective fix for Starlink not working. I know, it sounds almost insultingly simple. But a full power cycle clears temporary software gremlins in both the dish and router, and it genuinely resolves the problem about half the time.

1. Unplug the power cable from the Starlink router (or unplug the power supply unit from the wall outlet).
2. Wait a full 30 seconds. This ensures capacitors fully discharge and the system resets cleanly.
3. Plug the power cable back in.
4. Wait 5–10 minutes for the dish to boot up, locate satellites, and establish a connection. The dish will physically move during this process. Don’t panic, that’s normal.
5. Check the Starlink app. It should show “Online” within 10–15 minutes.

Pro tip: If you’ve got the system plugged into a surge protector or UPS, try plugging directly into the wall outlet instead. Starlink’s power supply can be finicky with voltage fluctuations from certain power strips.

Step 2: Inspect All Cable Connections

Starlink uses proprietary cables, and a loose connection is a surprisingly common cause of the “no internet” problem.

• Dish to router cable: Push the cable firmly into the port on the bottom of the router until you hear it click. Gen 2 (rectangular) routers use a proprietary connector. Gen 3 routers use a similar but updated version.
• Power connection: Make sure the power adapter is firmly connected. On some setups, the power supply is a separate brick sitting between the wall outlet and router.
• Cable damage: Run your eyes (and hands) along the entire cable from dish to router. Look for kinks, cuts, or spots where critters may have gnawed through the jacket. Even small nicks can cause intermittent or total connection loss.
• Cable routing: Don’t run the Starlink cable alongside high-voltage electrical wires. Electromagnetic interference from power lines can degrade the signal.

Step 3: Check Dish Position and Obstructions

Open the Starlink app and navigate to the obstruction viewer. This tool uses the dish’s built-in camera and accelerometer data to map what the dish can and can’t see overhead.

• Any red zones on the obstruction map mean the dish loses sight of satellites during parts of its scan.
• Even 1–2% obstruction can trigger frequent disconnects, enough to make Starlink feel borderline unusable.
• If you’ve recently had trees trimmed, put up a new structure, or the dish got bumped, re-run the obstruction check.

If obstructions are the culprit, jump to our detailed section on fixing Starlink obstructions further down.

Step 4: Stow and Unstow the Dish

Sometimes the dish just gets stuck in a weird position where it can’t properly track satellites. The “stow” function forces it back to its flat/folded position, and unstowing kicks off a fresh alignment sequence.

1. Open the Starlink app.
2. Go to Settings > Stow Starlink.
3. Wait for the dish to stow (lay flat). This takes about 30 seconds.
4. Once stowed, go back to Settings and tap Unstow.
5. The dish will re-orient itself and search for satellites. Wait 10–15 minutes.

Step 5: Try a Different Device

Before assuming Starlink itself is busted, test with a different device. Connect a different phone, tablet, or laptop to your Starlink WiFi. If the new device gets internet but your original doesn’t? The problem lives on that specific device, not Starlink.

Step 6: Bypass the Starlink Router

Running a third-party router alongside (or instead of) the Starlink router? Temporarily pull it out of the equation. Connect a device directly to the Starlink router’s WiFi to figure out whether the issue is Starlink or your third-party gear.

If you’ve got the Starlink router in bypass mode with a third-party router:

1. Disable bypass mode in the Starlink app (Settings > Router > Bypass Mode off).
2. Power cycle the system.
3. Connect directly to the Starlink router’s WiFi.
4. If the internet works, the problem’s with your third-party router’s configuration.

Step 7: Check for Firmware Updates

Open the Starlink app and go to Settings > Advanced > Starlink. Note the firmware version. If a firmware update is mid-install, the dish may temporarily lose connectivity. These updates usually happen between 2–6 AM but can occasionally fire during the day. Just wait for it to finish.

If none of these steps got you back online, move to the factory reset section or contact Starlink support.

Starlink Router Not Working, Troubleshooting Steps

When your Starlink router is not working (it appears dead, won’t broadcast WiFi, or has bizarre LED behavior), the issue is specifically with the router hardware or its configuration. The dish and satellite network might be perfectly fine on their end.

Symptoms of a Starlink Router Problem

• No LED lights on the router whatsoever
• LED stuck on solid violet/purple (no internet flowing from dish to router)
• WiFi network not showing up in your device’s available networks
• Router is uncomfortably hot to the touch
• Router keeps rebooting itself in a loop
• WiFi network appears but no devices can actually join it

Step-by-Step: Fix Starlink Router Issues

Step 1: Check Power to the Router

• Verify the power outlet works by plugging in something else (a lamp, phone charger, anything).
• If you’re using a power strip or surge protector, try plugging the Starlink power supply directly into a wall outlet.
• Inspect the power cable for damage. On the Gen 2 system, the power supply is baked into the router. On older systems, it’s a separate PoE (Power over Ethernet) injector.
• Try a different outlet on a different circuit breaker entirely to rule out an electrical problem.

Step 2: Disconnect and Reconnect All Cables

1. Unplug the power cable from the wall.
2. Disconnect the Starlink dish cable from the router.
3. Wait 60 seconds.
4. Reconnect the dish cable to the router. Push firmly until it clicks.
5. Plug the power cable back into the wall.
6. Wait 5–10 minutes for everything to boot.

Step 3: Check for Overheating

The Starlink router throws off a fair amount of heat during normal operation, but genuine overheating can cause shutdowns or erratic behavior.

• Keep the router in a well-ventilated spot. Don’t tuck it inside a closed cabinet, on carpet, or stacked on other electronics. I’ve seen people do all three at once, and it never ends well.
• The Gen 2 (rectangular) router has no fan at all. Relies entirely on passive cooling through the housing. Leave at least 6 inches of clearance on every side.
• If the router feels seriously hot, unplug it for 15 minutes to cool down, then restart.
• In hot climates (ambient temps above 95°F/35°C), relocate the router somewhere cooler if you can.

Step 4: Check Router Configuration in the App

Even when the router looks like it’s running, misconfigured settings can prevent it from working properly.

1. Open the Starlink app on your phone (you might need to connect via the Starlink WiFi network or Bluetooth).
2. Go to Settings > Router.
3. Verify your WiFi network name and password are correct.
4. Make sure “Split 2.4/5 GHz Networks” is set the way you intend. Having trouble connecting older devices? Try splitting the bands and connecting to 2.4 GHz specifically.
5. Check if Bypass Mode got accidentally turned on. If bypass mode is active but you don’t have a third-party router plugged in, the Starlink router won’t broadcast WiFi at all. This trips up a lot of people.

Step 5: Factory Reset the Router

If nothing above worked, a factory reset might be your best bet. See our detailed factory reset instructions below. Fair warning: it wipes all your custom settings (WiFi name, password, bypass mode, everything).

Step 6: Test Without the Router (Ethernet Adapter)

Got a Starlink Ethernet adapter? Try connecting a laptop directly to the dish (through the adapter) to see if the router itself is the problem. If internet works when you bypass the router entirely, the router needs replacing.

If you just set up your Starlink and the router didn’t work from the start, double-check our Starlink setup guide to make sure nothing got missed during installation.

Starlink Slow Speeds, How to Fix

Starlink typically delivers 50–250 Mbps downloads for residential plans, though what you actually experience depends on location, congestion, obstructions, and hardware generation. If your Starlink speeds have nosedived well below your normal baseline, here’s how to bring them back up.

First: Know What’s Normal

Before assuming something’s broken, understand the typical speed ranges:

Speeds bounce around throughout the day. Peak hours (6 PM–11 PM local time) tend to be slowest because everyone in your cell is online at once.

How to Fix Slow Starlink Speeds

1. Test from the right spot. Run speed tests from a device close to the router (within 10 feet, same room). WiFi distance and walls absolutely tank speeds. Use the Starlink app’s built-in speed test, which measures the connection between the dish and Starlink’s servers, not your WiFi. That distinction matters more than people realize.

2. Use a wired connection for testing. Got the Starlink Ethernet adapter? Plug a laptop in via Ethernet. This removes WiFi from the equation entirely. If wired speeds look fine but WiFi is slow, the satellite link isn’t your problem. WiFi coverage is.

3. Reduce obstructions. Even minor obstructions (2–3%) can crush your throughput. Open the Starlink app’s obstruction map and look for red areas. Every time the dish loses line-of-sight to a satellite, it has to reconnect, and those reconnection cycles destroy speeds even when the overall obstruction percentage looks tiny on paper.

4. Check your plan tier. On the Residential Lite plan? Your traffic gets deprioritized behind standard Residential users. During busy periods, Lite speeds can dip to 5–25 Mbps. Bumping up to standard Residential gives you higher priority.

5. Hunt for background bandwidth hogs. Another device on your network might be silently devouring bandwidth. Cloud backups (iCloud, Google Photos), system updates (Windows Update, game downloads), and multiple streams running at once can saturate the connection fast. The Starlink app shows connected devices, so check if something’s consuming more than its fair share.

6. Just restart it. A reboot sometimes resolves speed issues caused by software quirks or the dish locking onto a suboptimal satellite pass.

7. Wait for off-peak hours. Slow in the evening but fast at 2 AM? That’s network congestion, plain and simple. Common in densely populated Starlink cells, and there’s no user-side fix beyond upgrading to a Priority plan.

8. Check for thermal throttling. When temps climb above 104°F/40°C, the dish may dial back performance to avoid cooking itself. You might see a “Thermal Throttle” alert in the app. If possible, give the dish some shade during the hottest part of the day.

For a deeper speed optimization walkthrough, read our full guide on Starlink speeds and testing.

Starlink Intermittent Connection / Dropping Out

Intermittent drops (Starlink works for a while, then dies for seconds or minutes before snapping back) are arguably more frustrating than a complete outage. Your Zoom call freezes mid-sentence. Your game session kicks you. Downloads fail at 94%. Maddening stuff. Here’s how to figure out what’s causing it and put a stop to it.

Use the Starlink App’s Outage History

Open the Starlink app and go to Advanced > Outages. This screen shows a timeline of every disconnection in the past 12 hours, broken down by cause:

• “Obstructed”, The dish briefly lost sight of satellites. Fix: move the dish somewhere with better sky view.
• “No Satellites”, No Starlink satellites were overhead at that moment. Rare, usually just seconds. If it happens frequently, you may be at the edge of coverage.
• “Beta Downtime” / “Network Issue”, Starlink’s problem, not yours. Should resolve on its own.
• “Searching”, The dish lost satellite lock and had to re-acquire. Could indicate a positioning issue or software hiccup.
• “Thermal Shutdown”, The dish or router got too hot and shut down to protect itself.

Common Causes and Fixes for Intermittent Drops

1. Obstructions are the #1 culprit. If the outage log is peppered with “Obstructed” entries, your dish placement needs work. Even a single tree branch swaying in the wind can trigger repeated brief disconnects. Head to the obstructions section for detailed fixes.

2. Loose or damaged cable. A cable that isn’t fully seated, or one with internal damage, causes connections that come and go. Wind jostling the cable makes it worse. Re-seat both ends firmly. If the cable runs through a wall, check for pinch points.

3. WiFi interference (not actually Starlink). The satellite connection might be rock-solid while your WiFi is the real weak link. Test this by sitting next to the router and running the Starlink app’s speed test. If the app shows a stable connection but your device keeps dropping, your WiFi is the problem. Solutions:

• Move the router to a more central spot in your home.
• Add a Starlink mesh node (sold separately) for better coverage.
• Cut interference by moving the router away from microwaves, cordless phones, baby monitors, and Bluetooth gadgets.
• Switch to the 5 GHz band for nearby devices (faster, shorter range) and 2.4 GHz for distant ones (slower but better at penetrating walls).

4. Firmware updates. Starlink pushes firmware to the dish regularly. During an update, the dish may drop for 2–10 minutes. These usually happen overnight but can occasionally land during the day. If you see a single drop matching the timing of a firmware version change (visible in Settings > Advanced), an update was likely the cause.

5. Congestion-related drops. In extremely busy cells, the network may briefly drop lower-priority connections. This hits Residential Lite and Roam plan users hardest.

6. Grounding and electrical issues. In rare cases, poor grounding of the dish mount creates electrical interference that disrupts things. If you mounted on a metal pole, make sure it’s properly grounded per the Starlink setup guide recommendations.

Starlink Obstructions, How to Fix

Obstructions are the single biggest controllable factor in Starlink performance. The dish needs a wide, clear view of the sky (ideally 100° of unobstructed overhead space) to maintain continuous contact with fast-moving LEO satellites. Here’s how to diagnose and fix obstruction problems.

How to Check for Obstructions

Method 1: Starlink App Obstruction Map

After your dish has been running for 12+ hours, the app builds a detailed obstruction map. Go to the main screen and tap the obstruction indicator. You’ll see:

• A circular sky view showing clear (blue) and obstructed (red) zones
• A percentage of total sky that’s blocked
• Estimated minutes of obstruction per 12-hour period

Method 2: Starlink App “Check for Obstructions” Tool

Before installing (or when scouting a new location), use the app’s AR (augmented reality) tool:

1. Open the Starlink app.
2. Tap “Check for Obstructions” on the main screen (or go to Settings > Check for Obstructions).
3. Hold your phone at the planned dish location and slowly scan the sky in a circle.
4. The app overlays the satellite path on your camera view, highlighting anything that would cause problems.

What Counts as an Obstruction?

• Trees, The most common offender by far. Deciduous trees are particularly sneaky (fine in winter when leaves drop, nightmare in summer when they’re full).
• Buildings and rooflines, Nearby structures, chimneys, old satellite dishes, or even your own roof edge if the dish sits too low.
• Power lines and poles, Can trigger brief repeated drops every time a satellite passes behind them.
• Mountains and hills, If terrain blocks a significant chunk of sky, Starlink will have coverage gaps. Can’t exactly move a mountain, though.
• Temporary obstructions, Construction cranes, new buildings going up, or even a vehicle parked near a ground-level dish.

How to Fix Obstructions

1. Relocate the dish. Far and away the most effective solution. Even moving it 10–20 feet can dramatically change the sky view. Common wins:

• Going from a ground mount to a roof mount (often the single biggest improvement possible)
• Shifting from one side of the roof to the other to clear a treeline
• Using a pole mount to get above nearby obstacles
• Moving away from the side of the house closest to tall trees

2. Trim trees. If specific trees are causing the issue, selective pruning can make a big difference. Use the app’s obstruction map to pinpoint exactly which direction the blockage is coming from.

3. Use a taller mount. Starlink sells various mounting options, and third-party alternatives are plentiful. A pole mount that lifts the dish 10–20 feet above the roofline can clear nearby obstructions entirely. Some popular choices:

• Starlink Pivot Mount, for peaked roofs
• Starlink Pipe Adapter, attaches to any standard pipe/pole
• Third-party J-mounts or tower mounts, available on Amazon for serious height needs
• Chimney mounts, leverages the highest point on many homes

4. Accept partial obstructions (sometimes). If you can get below 1%, the impact is honestly minimal. A few seconds of dropout per hour. For most web browsing, streaming, and even many video calls, that’s livable. Gaming and real-time applications are pickier, though.

Considering a dish upgrade with a wider field of view? Check our Starlink Mini vs Standard comparison.

Starlink Weather Issues (Rain Fade, Snow, Heat)

Starlink holds up surprisingly well in most weather conditions, but extreme stuff can temporarily knock your connection around. Here’s what to expect and what (if anything) you can actually do.

Rain and Thunderstorms

Rain fade is a real physical phenomenon where heavy rain absorbs and scatters the radio signals traveling between the dish and satellites. The practical impact:

• Light to moderate rain: Barely any effect. Maybe a 10–20% speed dip.
• Heavy rain: Speeds can drop 50% or more. Brief disconnects happen.
• Severe thunderstorms with downpours: Possible complete signal loss for minutes at a time. Connection usually bounces back once the worst of the rain passes.

What you can do: Honestly, not much. Rain fade is just physics. But if your signal degrades more than expected during rain, check that water isn’t pooling on or around the dish, and make sure the surface is clean. Dirt and debris can worsen the effect when wet.

Snow and Ice

Starlink dishes have a built-in heating element (called “Snow Melt”) that kicks in when the dish detects accumulation. Most of the time it works beautifully. But there are limits.

• Light to moderate snow: The heater handles it without breaking a sweat. You might not even notice.
• Heavy, wet snow or freezing rain: Can pile up faster than the heater can melt it. Power consumption spikes to 100–150W during active heating.
• Extreme cold (-30°F/-34°C and below): The heater may struggle to keep pace with ice formation.

What you can do:

• Confirm Snow Melt is enabled: Open the Starlink app > Settings > Snow Melt. Set to “Auto” (recommended) or manually control it.
• If snow builds up despite the heater, gently brush it off with a soft-bristle broom. Never use a shovel, scraper, or hot water. You’ll damage the dish surface.
• Mount the dish at a steeper angle (pole or wall mount) so gravity helps snow slide off.
• Some users swear by applying a thin coat of car wax or hydrophobic spray (like Rain-X) to help snow and ice shed. Not officially endorsed by Starlink, but widely reported as effective on the r/Starlink community.

Extreme Heat

The dish is rated up to 122°F (50°C), but performance degradation can start above 104°F (40°C). In scorching heat:

• The dish may thermal throttle, deliberately cutting performance to manage heat.
• In the worst cases, it can temporarily shut down with a “Thermal Shutdown” alert in the app.
• The router is susceptible too, especially if sitting in direct sunlight or an enclosed space.

What you can do:

• There’s no great way to shade the dish (it needs clear sky). That said, some users in brutally hot climates rig a small shade sail to block direct afternoon sun without obstructing the satellite view overhead. Clever hack.
• Keep the router indoors and well-ventilated.
• If thermal shutdowns keep recurring, contact Starlink support. Your dish might have a hardware defect.

Wind

The dish handles sustained winds up to 60 mph. Past that:

• High winds can vibrate the dish on its mount, causing brief signal hiccups.
• In extreme gusts (60+ mph), the dish may stow itself automatically to prevent damage.
• If you’re in a high-wind area, make sure the mount is securely fastened and add bracing if needed.

Starlink Firmware Update Issues

Starlink pushes firmware updates to your dish and router automatically. No opt-out, no delay option. Most updates improve things and add features, but occasionally one introduces a temporary hiccup. Fun times.

Symptoms of a Firmware-Related Issue

• Connection suddenly dies, then comes back after 5–15 minutes (the update was installing).
• Performance changes (better or worse) after a firmware version swap.
• The dish reboots unexpectedly.
• New settings or options appear (or vanish) in the Starlink app.

How to Check Your Firmware Version

1. Open the Starlink app.
2. Tap Settings > Advanced > Starlink.
3. Note the firmware version number (a long alphanumeric string like “4a3b5c2d-1234-abcd-…”).
4. Compare this with recent firmware versions reported on the r/Starlink subreddit to see if you’re on the latest and if others have reported issues with it.

What to Do About Firmware Issues

Wait it out. Most firmware quirks sort themselves within 24–48 hours. Starlink rolls updates in waves, and if a bad build causes widespread problems, they push a fix fast.

Reboot after an update. Once the update finishes, a manual power cycle can help clear transitional weirdness. Pull the plug for 30 seconds, then reconnect.

Report the issue. If a firmware update broke something, report it through the Starlink app (Settings > Support > Contact Us). This helps Starlink identify and squash firmware bugs faster.

Note: You cannot roll back to a previous firmware version. Waiting for a new update that fixes the issue is your only option.

Starlink WiFi Issues (Weak Signal, Devices Not Connecting)

Here’s something people don’t realize: many “Starlink not working” complaints are actually WiFi issues, not satellite issues. The Starlink router is a perfectly competent WiFi router, but it has limitations. Big homes, thick walls, tons of devices? It can struggle.

WiFi Network Not Appearing

• Don’t see the Starlink WiFi network at all? Check if the router LED is on. No light means no power (see router troubleshooting).
• If bypass mode is enabled in the Starlink app, the router’s WiFi is intentionally turned off. Disable it (Settings > Router > Bypass Mode) unless you’re purposely using a third-party router.
• Try rebooting the router. Some users report the WiFi network vanishing after firmware updates and reappearing after a reboot.
• On your device, “Forget” the Starlink network and reconnect from scratch.

Devices Won’t Connect to WiFi

• Wrong password: Double-check the WiFi password in the Starlink app (Settings > Router > WiFi Name and Password). The default network name is “STARLINK” and the password is on the sticker inside the router box.
• Too many devices: The Starlink Gen 2 router supports up to 128 devices. Sounds like plenty, right? But smart home gadgets (thermostats, cameras, bulbs, plugs) add up shockingly fast. Check connected devices in the app.
• Band incompatibility: Older devices sometimes only support 2.4 GHz WiFi. If your router is running a combined 2.4/5 GHz network (the default), some older devices struggle to connect. Split the bands in the app (Settings > Router > Split 2.4/5 GHz) and connect the problematic device to 2.4 GHz specifically.
• MAC filtering or client isolation: If you’ve turned on any advanced security settings, they might be blocking specific devices.

Weak WiFi Signal / Dead Zones

The Starlink router’s WiFi covers small to medium homes (1,500–2,000 sq ft) reasonably well but falls short in larger spaces, multi-story homes, or buildings with thick walls (brick, concrete, old plaster).

Solutions:

• Reposition the router. Put it in the most central location you can manage. Avoid closets, basements, or corners. Every wall the signal punches through saps its strength.
• Add Starlink mesh nodes. Starlink sells mesh WiFi nodes that integrate seamlessly with the router. Drop one or two in dead zones for whole-home coverage.
• Use a third-party mesh system. Want more control? Put the Starlink router in bypass mode and use Google Nest WiFi, Eero, Ubiquiti, or TP-Link Deco. More configuration options and often better coverage.
• Use Ethernet for stationary devices. With the Starlink Ethernet adapter, run cables to desks, gaming consoles, and smart TVs. Fastest, most reliable connection possible, and it frees up WiFi bandwidth for your wireless devices.

Connected to WiFi but No Internet

If your device shows “Connected” to Starlink WiFi but can’t actually reach the internet:

1. Check the Starlink app. Is it showing “Online”? If not, the satellite connection is the problem (see Starlink not connecting).
2. “Forget” the network on your device and reconnect.
3. Make sure DNS is set to automatic (not a custom DNS server that might be failing).
4. Restart your device.
5. If only one device has the issue, look for VPN software or firewall settings blocking the connection.

Starlink Hardware Issues (Dish, Cables, Power Supply)

If you’ve worked through all the software and configuration troubleshooting above and your Starlink is still not working, you may be dealing with an actual hardware failure. Here’s how to identify the most common ones.

Dish Issues

Dish not moving or positioning: The Starlink dish uses motors to tilt and aim itself. When first powered on, it should physically move within 1–2 minutes. If it doesn’t budge:

• Check that the dish cable is firmly connected at the base of the dish.
• Power cycle the system. The dish gets power through the cable from the router, so if the router isn’t powered, the dish won’t work either.
• Still won’t move after a power cycle? The motors or motor controller may have failed. Contact Starlink support for a replacement.

Dish stuck in stowed position: If it’s laying flat and won’t unstow:

• Check the app. Is the dish set to “Stowed”? If yes, go to Settings and tap “Unstow.”
• Power cycle the system.
• Look for ice or debris physically preventing the dish from moving.
• If none of that helps, the motor mechanism might be jammed. Do not force the dish manually. You’ll damage the motor assembly. Contact support.

Cracked or physically damaged dish: The dish face is covered by a thin radome (protective cover). Cracks, dents, or holes let moisture in, which can fry the electronics underneath. If you spot physical damage, contact Starlink support for a warranty replacement.

Cable Issues

The Starlink cable is the most vulnerable part of the whole system, especially the outdoor section.

• Animal damage: Squirrels, rodents, and pets love gnawing through cable jackets. Inspect the full length for bite marks. Damaged? You’ll need a replacement from the Starlink shop.
• UV degradation: Over years of sun exposure, the cable jacket can crack and flake, especially in sunny climates. If the outer covering is deteriorating, replace the cable.
• Connector damage: The proprietary connectors on both ends are delicate. Bent pins or a connector that feels loose/wobbly means you need a new cable.
• Internal breaks: A cable can be broken inside while looking perfectly fine on the outside, especially if it got kinked, pinched in a window or door, or had heavy objects sitting on it. Suspect an internal break? Try gently flexing different sections while watching the connection. If it drops when you touch a specific spot, you’ve found the culprit.

Important: Starlink cables are proprietary and can’t be repaired with off-the-shelf connectors. You must buy a replacement from Starlink. Gen 2 and Gen 3 cables are different, so make sure you order the right one. Check our hardware comparison for which cables work with which systems.

Power Supply Issues

On the Gen 2 (rectangular dish) system, the power supply lives inside the router. On the Gen 1 (round dish) system, it’s a separate PoE injector box.

• Power supply making noise: A faint hum is normal. Loud buzzing, clicking, or high-pitched whining? That could signal a failing unit.
• Power supply overheating: Like the router, it needs airflow. If it’s too hot to hold comfortably, move it somewhere cooler.
• Intermittent power: System randomly cycling on and off? The power supply might be going bad. Try a different wall outlet first, then contact Starlink for a replacement if it persists.
• LED indicators on PoE injector (Gen 1): The green LED should be solid when working. Flashing or no LED points to a power supply issue.

How to Factory Reset Starlink

A factory reset wipes your Starlink router back to its original out-of-box state. WiFi name, password, all custom settings (bypass mode, split bands, the works), gone. Only the router gets reset, not the dish. Use this as a last resort when everything else has failed.

When to Factory Reset

• Router is stuck in an error state and won’t recover after rebooting.
• You can’t connect to the router’s WiFi and don’t remember the password (and can’t access it through the app either).
• Bypass mode is on but you don’t have a third-party router, and you can’t get into the app to change settings.
• You’re selling or giving away your Starlink kit and want to clear your personal info.
• Starlink support specifically tells you to do a factory reset.

Method 1: Factory Reset via Power Cycling (All Router Models)

This works on every Starlink router generation:

1. Unplug the Starlink router’s power cable from the wall outlet.
2. Wait 3 seconds.
3. Plug it back in.
4. Wait for the LED to start blinking white (about 3–5 seconds).
5. Immediately unplug it again before it finishes booting.
6. Repeat steps 2–5 a total of 6 times (plug in, wait for blink, unplug, six full cycles).
7. On the 6th plug-in, leave it plugged in. The router LED should turn blinking violet/purple, meaning it’s entered factory reset/setup mode.
8. Wait 2–3 minutes for the reset to complete.
9. Open the Starlink app and re-configure your WiFi name, password, and other settings.

Timing is everything. You need to unplug during the early boot phase (while the LED is still blinking white). Wait too long and the router fully boots, which means that cycle doesn’t count. Some people find it helpful to count “one-Mississippi, two-Mississippi, three-Mississippi” between each plug and unplug.

Method 2: Factory Reset via the Starlink App

If you can still connect to the router (via WiFi or Bluetooth):

1. Open the Starlink app.
2. Go to Settings.
3. Scroll down to Factory Reset.
4. Tap Factory Reset and confirm.
5. Wait 2–3 minutes for the reset to complete.
6. The router will broadcast a default WiFi network (usually “STARLINK”). Connect to it and set up your new WiFi name and password.

Method 3: Reset Button (Gen 1 Router Only)

The original Gen 1 (round dish) router has a physical reset button on the bottom. Press and hold with a paperclip for 10+ seconds until the LED starts blinking. That triggers the factory reset.

After the reset: Your dish doesn’t need re-registration or re-activation. It’ll automatically reconnect to the Starlink network once the router is configured. You only need to redo your WiFi settings. For a full setup walkthrough, see our Starlink setup guide.

When to Contact Starlink Support

You’ve power cycled, checked cables, run diagnostics, maybe even factory reset the whole system. And your Starlink is still not working. At this point, it’s time to contact Starlink support. Here’s when to make that call (well, submit that ticket) and what to expect.

Contact Starlink Support When:

• The dish won’t power on at all, no movement, no LED, no heat, despite a confirmed working power source.
• Solid red LED on the router, indicates a hardware error that software troubleshooting can’t fix.
• Visible physical damage to the dish, cable connectors, or router that wasn’t self-inflicted.
• Persistent “No Signal” or “Offline” for over 24 hours with no reported outage in your area.
• Unusual grinding or clicking noises from the dish, the motor assembly might be failing.
• Speeds consistently far below plan minimums (like under 5 Mbps on standard Residential) for more than a week with clear skies.
• System can’t recover after a factory reset, stuck in setup or endlessly “Searching.”
• Account or billing issues blocking service activation.

How to Contact Starlink Support

Method 1: Through the Starlink app (recommended)

1. Open the Starlink app.
2. Go to Settings > Support.
3. Browse the troubleshooting articles. If none help, tap “Contact Us” or “Submit a Ticket.”
4. Describe the issue thoroughly, including everything you’ve already tried.

Method 2: Through the website

1. Go to support.starlink.com.
2. Log into your account.
3. Navigate to Support and submit a ticket.

What to Include in Your Support Ticket

For the fastest possible resolution, pack your ticket with:

• Your account email and service address
• Dish and router hardware version (visible in the app under Settings > Advanced)
• Current firmware version
• Screenshots from the app showing the error, obstruction map, and outage history
• List of troubleshooting steps you’ve already completed (power cycle, factory reset, etc.)
• How long the issue has persisted
• Photos of any visible damage (if applicable)

What to Expect

Starlink support is email-only (no phone line, which I realize is frustrating). Response times typically fall in the 24–72 hour range. For hardware failures under warranty (1 year for most components), Starlink ships a replacement at no charge. Out-of-warranty replacements are available for purchase through the Starlink shop.

While you’re waiting for support or a replacement, you’ll need a backup internet source. Your phone’s hotspot works in a pinch, or check out alternatives to Starlink for other options near you.

Frequently Asked Questions